Our initial plan was to limit our visit of Taiwan to just its capital, Taipei - but the minute we started researching the island it was apparent that there is much more to it than just its famous mega-city: Formosa’s nature is also unrivalled, with a slew of diverse landscapes and geological attractions. And so today, we are starting our exploration with a trip along the nearby historical Pinxi train line, originally set up to serve a slew of mining villages. While the industrial activity has died down, tourism has boomed in those picturesque hamlets within easy access to pretty forested mountains dotted with waterfalls - and despite our aching calves (from scaling Elephant Mountain yesterday) we’re fully intending to get a hike in today.
The plan today takes full advantage of Taiwan’s seamless infrastructure: we’re also changing hotels and so have our big bags with us, but we’re counting on being able to drop them off when needed at some of the many ubiquitous lockers we’ve noticed. And indeed, after one sleek local train ride (covered by our transport card) we easily find a space for our luggage at the head station of the Pinxi line, Ruifang. Considerably lighter, we purchase a handy day pass for the entire line for the equivalent of £2, allowing us to train-hop to our heart’s content between the various points of interest dotted along the tracks. And there’s nothing more to do than wait for the train to arrive, which it soon does: all two adorable retro wagons of it.
We just get a seat, as it’s another beautiful sunny day and we’re evidently not the only people to do this day-trip. The area is popular both with international and local tourists, and with such easy (and cheap) access it makes sense. We slowly rattle off, and after a few minutes we’re out of Ruifang city and into the hills. It’s soon obvious why Taipei residents might come here for a breather: we’re going right through lush green forest, clinging to the side of a shallow gorge and overlooking tumultuous, turquoise water. It’s an infusion of nature at its best, less than five minutes after boarding!
Our furthest (and first) selected stop today is popular Shifen - only halfway along the line, but we still have a little travelling to do when we get back and our fitness levels really wouldn’t support climbing another mountain today. The village is renowned for its custom of flying home-made paper lanterns inscribed with wishes and prayers - which are usually launched right from the train tracks. And indeed, as we alight, once the way is clear tourists start pouring back in and busily posing with their lanterns before setting them free. We’re not planning on making one ourselves but it’s fun to observe and there is something mystical about the sight of a dozen mini red hot-air-ballons floating up above the houses.
The tracks are lined with souvenir shops and little food stands - and although prices are probably marked up they are still very reasonable and we immediately buy a couple of snacks to try: roasted chicken wings stuffed with rice and another sausage for Ollie who’s definitely found his favourite Taiwanese delicacy. Our main goal here is Shifen’s other attraction: its waterfall, sometimes dubbed “the Niagara of Taiwan” (probably by the people writing the tourism brochures!) It’s a short stroll through the buildings to the start of a well-maintained pedestrian trail, taking us along the gorge and over a couple of spectacular suspended bridges.
As we near the falls themselves, there’s a little rest area with some more food stands and a few smaller attractions: an old mining wagon, a collection of knee-high bronze horses, and a little elephant shrine covered in red ribbons. There are some explanations but in Chinese and we continue towards the waterfall. While the comparison to the Niagara is a bit exaggerated, the falls are pretty: a wide crescent the width of the river, the water falling down several vertical tiers in smooth sheets. The walk here was very pleasant too and as we make our way back to town we are very pleased with our first stop.
By the station, we have a few minutes spare to browse souvenir shops and get some miniature versions of the lanterns still taking off; and to buy a few more local specialties: peanut ice cream roll and sugared fruit skewer. It’s a nice treat after our stroll and we get back on our picturesque train looking forward to the next walk.
After a short journey back in the direction of Ruifang, we alight inside the quiet tunnel station of Sandiaoling. We’re very much the only ones to do so, and I’m hoping that my sources were correct in pointing us towards the start of a little mountain hike with more waterfalls to spot here. It’s not looking very promising as we are funnelled along the tracks for a few hundred meters down a narrow path flanked with barbed wire. Luckily, the gorge and river are right there to provide a bit of interest, and we get to spot another train going past. Finally, after squeezing through a low underpass, we come out on a wide grassy area with a little cafe: hopefully someone can help us figure out where to go! The owner is busy feeding her absolutely giant cat (a Maine Coon?) but she kindly points us in the correct direction - and right on cue, a large group of older hikers is starting the trail too, making sure we can’t miss it.
Despite their hiking sticks and determination, we soon overtake them in another steep stairway start (decidedly, most of our walks seem to involve an exhausting amount of steps) and are quickly on our own in the forest. We’re not too sure where we are going but there are signs at sporadic intervals indicating some of the waterfalls - close enough for us! And the trail is lovely: first through an airy bamboo grove, over a series of literal rope bridges, and then following a gurgling stream through ancient mossy forest.
It’s another hot day but luckily we’ve got quite a bit of shade here and we make good progress despite my frequent photo stops. After about half an hour, we get to the first viewing platform over the huge Hegu waterfall: we’re much further away from it but this is another beast than Shifen! Very happy with our find, we continue with renewed vigour: according to the internet, there should be two more falls to look for.
Our enthusiasm is short-winded however as the trail splits up and gets more difficult. We’re clambering over tricky roots, scrambling up rocks, fording brooks and at some point we even sidle along a narrow rock ledge over a stream for a few meters. We do encounter a few other hikers though, so this should definitely be the way? The increasingly slippery path is deterring us though, and we are about to turn back, but decide to give it two more minutes. And just on time, as turning the last corner we finally happen on to the spectacular Montian fall. This time we’re right under it and the narrow stream arches from the cliff high up over our heads, falling clear from the rock almost like a little sister to Angel Falls. We’re very glad we made it this far - but our allotted walking time to catch the once-hourly train back is running out, and we do turn back, still very satisfied.
It’s a much easier journey on the way back, except for a few particularly tricky spots, as we now know exactly where we’re heading. Along the way we cross with the same large group of hikers which we left behind at the start: they’re still going! We make it back to the station with plenty of time to comfortably catch our train to Ruifang. There was another potential stop on our itinerary: Houtong, reputed for being a “cat village”, overrun by as many feline inhabitants as humans. But we’ve already passed it on the train and could see nary a furry tail - and now after two walks we’re a bit tired and ready to wrap up the day, so we decide to give it a miss. After all, the gigantic cat from the cafe in Sandiaoling more than represented his fellow pets today!
Back in Ruifang, we easily retrieve our bags and set off to grab our final public transport of the day: a bus to Jiufen where we plan to spend the night. This remote mountain village is another popular tourist destination, and the large coach bus is packed, but everyone gets a seat, and luckily: the driver immediately accelerates away and covers the narrow, winding road there at terrifying speed. The lurches threaten to throw us out of our seats a few time but thankfully it’s a short ride and we make it there intact.
We’re greeted by a magnificent orange and green temple standing proud just below the bus stop: the entire village is desperately clinging to the side of the mountain, and its buildings stand in tiers above each other. This makes for a very picturesque townscape and indeed as we head towards our hotel we get a glimpse of sweeping views and narrow streets and staircases branching off the main road. Jiufen’s famed Old Street is one such alleyway winding off through the village. Since tourism to the town has boomed, it’s lined with souvenir shops, food stands, and most importantly, pretty red lanterns all the way - making it quite an enchanting sight.
We lucked out with our accommodation as the Chiu Chunt Dint Inn is located right on this central tourist artery, and we’re very much in the front row to enjoy it. After taking a short rest in our tiny but very comfortable room, we pop out to see the village at night and search for some dinner. With all the lanterns lit, the place looks positively magical and it’s easy to see where the claims that Jiufen was the inspiration for the Miyazaki film “Spirited Away” originated. This is only reinforced as we make our way to the famed Amei tea-house, a huge, lovely traditional building absolutely covered in lights. Right on the edge of the slope (and commanding a fantastic view in the daytime), in the dark it looks about to sail into the night, and I do feel like we’ve inadvertently stepped into one of the Japanese creator’s animated movies.
Ollie finally manages to pry me away to go look for some food - and we get another stroke of luck by grabbing a couple of the last chairs at a small eatery where the bar we sit at overlooks the view down the mountain. We can see over the lower part of the village all the way down to the coast - and to top it off we get some delicious, cheap food while admiring. Three out of three fantastic days in Taiwan: this little detour may be turning into my favourite part of the trip!
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